Photos from Cambodia

Photos from Luang Prabang to Cambodian Border

Stung Treng to Kampong Thum – riding stats

Stats for the three days.

Stung Treng to Kampong Sralao

Time riding: 3hrs 47mins
Average speed: 19.4 kmh
Max speed: 36.1 kmh
Distance: 73.8 km
Distance – total: 1230.10 km

Kampong Sralao to our “jungle camp” (late determined to be about 30 km south of Chey Sey)

Time riding: 5 hrs 29 min
Average speed: 18.2 kmh
Max speed: 37.9 kmh
Distance: 100.2 km
Distance – total: 1330.22 km

“jungle camp” to Kampong Thum

Time riding: 6 hrs 45 min
Average speed: 21.2 kmh
Max speed: 40.3 kmh
Distance: 132.50 km
Distance – total: 1462.72 km

Stung Treng to Kampong Thum

Ok, given the nature of these three days I am going to merge them, you will see why. Riding stats are in a separate post however. These three days were ones we will both regale into the future. All in all this was a great adventure even if much went wrong. We saw parts of Cambodia that those lucky few foreigners that work for NGOs ever get to see – evidently them any UNICEF soccer jerseys kids wore in small villages accessible only by ox drawn cart or tug tractor.

The three days were an adventure of dust, mud, getting lost, straight roads, sleeping in tents, rain, straight roads and small small villages. Interestingly, with the exception of the last 60 odd km of rice paddies if you were dropped on this road you would have sworn you were in out back Australia with the long red pea gravel road disappearing into nondescript scrub.

Key lessons from this leg was that in a country as poor as Cambodia where significant infrastructure projects are being progressed through international aid you can not trust any maps as new roads are being put in at an amazing rate. This doubled with a lack of English and people to ask directions in villages in north eastern Cambodia can lead to embarrassing situations, such as leaving you 70 km north of where you expect to be . . . Learnt from experience. Humoursly for us, this wrong turn (well, we never saw the right road) resulted in a very funny conversation with a group of locals about how far we were from Cheab after a long days ride. We knew we were not in the right place. After much map investigations and charades reality dawned on our faces like a custard pie thrown in your face when James asked the silly question of “so where is Laos?” and got the answer “over the hill”. Unfortunately, while this lovely man’s English was poor it was quite clear after a 2 minute ride that we were just next to the Mekong on the opposite side of Si Phan Don. We had come 12 km in two days as the crow flies. I guess we should have realized a number of hints along the way, such as people passing us speaking Laos, the large number of seriously armed soldiers around and the large unexplained river we could often see in the distance.

After a beer on the Mekong drowning our sorrows of taking the wrong road – is this the second time we have done this now? – we relaxed in Kampong Sralao.

With the commencement of day two we at least knew where we were and how far it was to Chaeb. Local intelligence also told us that the road was brand new. We were excited as while yesterday’s road was also of high quality and the log bridges of yesterday (often like something you would see in a mountain bike park) were a nice distraction from the long gravel roads making up time was a priority to make up for our “diversion”. The first few km was great going but then, as Murphy would have it, we found the caveat to the great road, they had not put installed any bridges yet. While this meant no trucks or hiluxes barreling down on us flicking dust and grit it did mean every few km wading, splashing, squelching or pulling our bikes through river / stream / mud crossings.

With the kilometres quickly clicking by through a blur of dirt, small villages, ox drawn carts, tug tractors and mud Chaeb was finally found early afternoon. After an interesting encounter with a very friend local who showed us the quick back road to Kampong Thum (or at least he said it was which left us with a funny feeling in the back of our minds). After being in Laos where everyone is friendly and overly generous I was surprised when as we were about to head off the gentleman said “I helped you, can you help me?”. After some sideward glances at each other and some probing of our new “friend” it became clear he wanted cash for this information. Nothing comes free in Cambodia, which was very disappointing but I guess it’s understandable being a foreigner in a very poor country.

After our encounter and light fast fading (it was five o’clock) we were determined to get some serious km under our belt and find a guesthouse on the main highway, which theoretically should have been about 20 km down the road. Almost reminiscent of our impromptu home stay in Laos with 30km clocked up and light fading we were still on dirt. After crossing a local toll bridge for crossing a stream (1USD so we did not complain) and then a long Indian Jones style suspension bridge over a deep river – the thing twisted and turned terrible as I inched across it, I half expected spears to be thrown at us and some native to cut the ropes like in a movie – the conversation of where to stay was becoming a serious issue.

With the highway still nowhere to be found and the dirt sprawling ahead James vetoed a road crew who wanted to put us up after a previous experience (see his funny blog post on this at bisforbike.wordpress.com). The reality was fast dawning on us that we were going to be camping, which meant finding somewhere without people (which is harder than it seems). But just as the light was twinkling out a small seemingly disused farm track appeared and ended up being home for the night.

While it was home it was by no means sweet, mosquitoes swarmed in quickly as we ate our meager dinner of rice and omelette and we were both sliding into our small, humid bivy sacks early with the deep question in our mind of “where are we? And, where is the highway?”. As the rain settled in over night (which continuing through the next day) it was clear we were both still smiling and joking from our respective “rooms” at each other even though our days turned consistently to the unexpected, this was just another twist to an adventure we both we expecting.

With a surprising tasty and satisfying breakfast of left over sticky rice and condensed milk for breakfast (don’t knock it til you have tried it!) we were on the road by sparrow’s fart to get to Kampong Thum, wherever it is. Enveloped in light rain we cruised down our deserted road south mud flicking here and there, albeit stopped quickly by blocked mud guards which were hence (humoursly) removed.

Roads in Cambodia now no longer surprise me as it was not long down the road that James made the happy but terrifying discovery that following some chance sign reading he had not only resulted in us being found on our map but determined that we were already on the national highway!! I still cant believe this. As luck had it we only had to wait another dozen or so km before we finally found asphalt and signs to Kampong Thum. We both nearly fell over with joy but the first order of business was a serious bike dunking in the stream to get ride of the kilos of mud we were both carrying.

For a flip on his story and to hear about our lucky purchases check out James’ blog entry on this three-day adventure.

Next and last stop for me, Siem Reap.

Si Phan Don to Stung Treng, Cambodia

Time riding: 4hrs 10 mins
Average speed: 22.9 kmh
Max speed: 39.0 kmh
Distance: 95.98 km
Distance – total: 1156.30 km

Today was our last day in Laos. It is amazing ow quickly this has come about but at the same time my flights here seem a distant memory.

After another spin about the island on the bikes to see the waterfalls – a kayakers dream but very scary – we jumped on a boat and crossed to the mainland and made our 19km roll towards the border.

It did not take us long to arrive at the massive new Laos border crossing under construction, and in true Laos style had to divert around it through puddles and dodging cows. Bless.

Entering Cambodia was a pleasant experience but lived up to expectation – Scambodia. I have read and heard much about this, particularly in the more distant border crossings when the government is have less success in breaking it’s reputation. But one does question whether given the low levels of pay and poverty in he country whether it is an active process of ignoring so that they don’t have to pay border guards more. So, without visas process, or 1USD health certificate and our 1USD stamping charge at the cross we were rolling along in Cambodia. Funnily, as we left the shacks that made up the border crossing we passed the brand new (maybe 12 months old) Cambodian border crossing, covered in cobwebs and jungle taking over like I imagine must have happened to Angkor Wat. Maybe one day it will be redound and used bay future generation.

The one thing I quickly learnt about Cambodia is they love their straight straight roads. You could almost mistake them for Germans in their meticulousness. You know it is go got be a long last 63km to our destination when their is no traffic (it took about 30km before we saw anyone!),the sun is beaming down and two games come to mind the first being guessing how long is this straight (it became a regular game over the coming days) and I Spy. The later game never bodes well when, reminiscent of “Finding Nemo” commences with, “I spy with my little eye something beginning with “B”….

After a long hot ride we were greeted by the most spectacular orange sunset over the Mekong as we crossed the new large bridge into Stung Treng. Let’s hope that this is a good omen.

Si Phan Don

Ok we cheated. Time was running out for me and with the knowledge of recent border clashes between Thailand and Cambodia where we wanted to cross and flooding in Thailand we decided we would overnight bus to Si Phan Don (also known as the 4,000 Islands) in southern Laos and cross into Cambodia from the north east. To say the overnight bus was cosy is a mild understatement.

But after a long night, a mini van and a boat we were on beautiful Don Det island. This is a place I could happily relax and explore the many many islands for a week or so while enjoying riverside bungalows. When they say 4,000 islands I think they underestimated.

Each island seemed to cater / focus on different clientele. Ours seemed to serve everything with optional (or not happy) or clearly had joints on the blackboard outside. I think we picked the one for the Vang Vieng crowd, but atleast it was more sedate and everything was spread around the edges of the islands which you could get to by boat or in some cases by bridge to explored spectacular waterfalls, see small towns, watch locals fish or just find a quiet spots to chill and watch the world go by with a cold drink.

Vang Vieng to Vientienne

Time riding: 7 hrs and 20 min
Average speed: 22.8
Max speed: 67.0 kmh
Distance: 168.44 km
Distance – total: 1060.32 km

I know that I have groaned on about hills (James will attest to this) it is amazing how quickly you miss the scenery and distraction that goes with them once you have flatness for as far as you eye can see ahead of you. I think I got 12km before I was over it.

Today was a long one: flat, hot, dusty and flat. There is not much more to say really. When we finally arrived, as seems always, a cold drink was urgently required and the first beer I don’t think even touched the sides. Must be time for an AFD (alcohol free day) soon, maybe. The beer is nearly as cheap as water and feels so much better after a long day.

Vientiane was largely a relaxation stop to fix breakages etc. although I think we both wanted out pretty quick. It was a choking big city with clinical western hotels and load tourists. Like Vang Vieng, you felt everything was over priced and you had to check every bill as a mysterious 5,000 kip always was add in. With the exception of the COPE centre this place did not feel like the Laos we had seen over the last few weeks.

The COPE centre however was EXCELLENT. The purpose of which is to raise awareness in communities (and wider) of unexploded ordinance (UXO) and help those harmed by them, often by those known as “bombies”, with wheel chairs and artificial limbs. We watched a fascinating doco on bombies while we were thee and it really opened my eyes to the phenomenal situation of UXOs in Laos, where they can “clear” communities four times and still find large bombs, including in once instance under the main road into town! It seems like bombies are the main culprit to still lingering, small fist sided bombs (which for kids often look like a ball) dropped by the millions upon millions by the USA; supposable around 2 tonnes for each person in the key bombing areas. These bombies released from a larger missile in large quantities have charges set to explode and send the hundreds of ball bearings in their casings hundred of metres in each direction to critically injury anyone near by. A vast majority of these lay still unexploded. May of these bombs were dropped intentionally during and post the Vietnam war. Scarily and shockingly to me, much of the bombing in Laos was just to offload bombs after failed missions in vietnam so they don’t have the risk of taking them off the plane at the base. War – I hope someone can explain this to me one day.